Friday, July 12, 2013

Peace Corps at its Finest


At 66 Doug Angell is representative of about 5% of the Peace Corps volunteers in Tanzania.  Primarily attracted by the newly graduated youth there has always been a small number of middle-aged and seniors for e.g. Jimmy Carter’s mother volunteered in her 80’s.  Peace Volunteers do not live an easy life as the premise besides direct service delivery, is living in the community and blending into said community by a common lifestyle. 

Doug, a Shop Teacher by trade, is teaching Secondary School children Math and Chemistry to help with the big shortage of Science teachers.  His teaching load is much heavier than most, if not all his colleagues partly due to the shortage and partly due to the fact that he can and will do it. Doug tries to set an example for his fellow teachers and students in terms of self-respect (work ethic) and respect for the students (no corporal punishment, offering extra tuition, caring about each and every student’s progress).  He occasionally expresses his differing views to the teachers but mostly he lets his actions to do the teaching. 

Doug lives in a small town several hours north of Dodoma and due south of Arusha.  The town of Kibaya is in the Kiteto District of Manyara Region, on the edge of the Maasai Steppe.  Being at 5,000 Feet Kibaya is nestled between rolling hills and several small mountains.  Thanks to this elevation, the views of the Steppes are wonderful and the temperatures are currently downright cool in the night and morning.  Besides the 45 walk minute into to town (containing the market, dairy and a variety of small Dukas), Doug hikes the hills with his VSO friends.  


Doug believes he has  ‘safi’ housing (Swahili word for clean but used to mean nicer, or Mzungu-style, or ‘cool’).  This, because his house has two bedrooms, living/dining space, a small fridge, gas cooking burners and cement floors.  I liken his life-style to ‘one up from camping’ with no running water the ‘Choo’ (bathroom), cement shelter for bucket bathing, and kitchen clean-up are all outside.  Doug hauls water in 20 litre buckets from the local ‘bomba’ or community tap, which luckily is just outside his walled compound.  His role-model is the 10year old girl who carries such buckets of water on her head!  The water is stored in numerous buckets and other large plastic containers to ensure he is never without...there was a 10 day dry period earlier this year so he keeps it well stocked.  All this sounds pretty good, but remember this is brackish water which is only used for cleaning purposes.  Drinking water needs to be boiled before drinking (if you don’t mind the salty flavour) or purchased in large bottles in town.  Doug buys his milk from the local Dairy (one large room with a can of fresh milk).  He must boil this to pasteurize and use it up fairly quickly, which means regular 1.5 hr walks to the Dairy and back.



 


Doug has always told his students that “we take from our community all our lives, it therefore behooves us to give back when and where we can”.    It was this philosophy that led him to sign up for Peace Corps.  That and having read Greg Mortonson’s books (including Three Cups of Tea), he decided it was time to give back.  A divorced father of two adult children, and a senior-US- citizen, could easily be ready to retire.  But not so Doug.   His joie de vivre and future plans definitely belie his age.  Doug attributes his philosophy of life to several things, including having had many mentors over the years, and even in the present. 

Two life-changing experiences helped to form who he is now.   At 21 one Doug served in Vietnam for 3 years.  This left him with many changed attitudes and views about violence and humanity.  He recalls never having felt such fear before or since that war experience.  In the early 70’s Doug and his wife took Transcendental Meditation (TM) and various relaxation techniques, to help cope more easily with daily life.  Doug is an atheist but has read many of the texts from different religions, and eventually came to his own awakening/knowing.

After 35 years of PTSD symptoms, primarily in the form of suppressed and bottled-up anger, Doug had an Epiphany.  Doug takes a yearly vacation at a Horse Ranch in the Interior of BC.  One day, deep in experience of freedom and one-ness with the horse and the majestic surroundings, he felt his anger release.  A subtle change on the outside, perhaps, he is much happier and finding it easier to ‘go with the flow of the river’, which serves him well while working and living in such a different culture.

Doug speaks of the personal changes that are unfolding partially with an air of the unknown.  He guesses that many of the changes won’t be made evident to him until after he returns home.    But he is aware of a deeper appreciation of the culture differences.  He is studying hard to learn his Swahili and allowing his students to help teach him.  Doug mentioned briefly that he might be ‘putting off’ finding another life-partner, but he is clear the relationship will be one of depth, and the language barrier precludes him finding another soul-mate here.  In the meantime he is deeply valuing and enjoying the relationships he has made here, in particular with Simon, the Maasai young man and Samson, the 28 y.o. Tanzanian teacher at his school.  It seems that Doug is receiving as much as he is giving in this ‘2 year vacation’ as he terms this experience. 
 

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